Between Pula and Zadar

Between Pula and Zadar

Zadar

Zadar

Zadar

Zadar

Split

Split

Victory Day, Trogir

Victory Day, Trogir

Ceiling relief, Chapel of St. John, Trogir

Ceiling relief, Chapel of St. John, Trogir

Zadar

Zadar

Bell tower, Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir

Bell tower, Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir

Chapel of St. John, Trogir

Chapel of St. John, Trogir

Zadar

Zadar

Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir

Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir

Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir

Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir

Croatia

Dalmatia

August 2010 • Heading down the Dalmatian Coast was miserable at first. The catamaran between Pula and Zadar was pummeled by 6-foot waves, and probably a quarter of the 200 passengers began filling plastic bags with their undigested breakfast. When the sea finally calmed, I struck up a conversation with Marta, a 20-something social sciences major who studied for 9 months in the U.S. We talked for a long time about travel, about American idealism, and about growing classism in post-socialist Croatia. It was a great conversation—all too rare along this very crowded tourist trail. And it taught me a lesson: To enjoy Croatia, to really get to know it, I might have to suffer first. Especially in August.

Between Pula and Zadar

Between Pula and Zadar

Zadar

Zadar

Zadar

Zadar

Split

Split

Victory Day, Trogir

Victory Day, Trogir

Ceiling relief, Chapel of St. John, Trogir

Ceiling relief, Chapel of St. John, Trogir

Zadar

Zadar

Bell tower, Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir

Bell tower, Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir

Chapel of St. John, Trogir

Chapel of St. John, Trogir

Zadar

Zadar

Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir

Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir

Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir

Cathedral of St. Lovro, Trogir