Jul 28, 2010 | Zagreb

After a month poking around the remnants of the Roman empire, I've about had my fill of churches, mosaics, frescoes, broken statues, and solemn museums. Zagreb has all the above, I'm sure, but I'd rather sit in the main square and pick off shots. Croat faces are short on glamour, chiseling, Botox, and other cosmetic interventions, but they're full of character. And I'm fascinated by the ones that pass through the broad plaza of Ban Josip Jelacic in a single hour.