Jan 14, 2010 | Ayeyarwady River

Got off the tourist loop (Yangon-Bagan-Mandalay-Inle Lake) and flew to Myitkyina, the northernmost town where foreigners are allowed to go without a special permit. Followed the Ayeyarwady River all the way back to Yangon, traveling by local and express boats, train, minivans, and full-size buses. Rarely ever saw other foreigners, so the reception from locals was rock-star caliber. Sometimes the attention was endearing (like the guy in Monywa), and sometimes it was oppressive (like the girl in Pakokku). A lot of people want to learn or practice English, which is usually taught inaccurately by a Myanmar national rather than by a native speaker. And because the people are so starved for contact with the outside world, social boundaries aren't quite as rigid as they are in the Western world.