Santa Lucia Hill, Santiago

Santa Lucia Hill, Santiago

Valparaiso

Valparaiso

Museum of Memory and Human Rights, Santiago

Museum of Memory and Human Rights, Santiago

International Workers' Day, Valparaiso

International Workers' Day, Valparaiso

Joaquín Torres-García, Centro Cultural La Moneda, Santiago

Joaquín Torres-García, Centro Cultural La Moneda, Santiago

Funicular, Valparaiso

Funicular, Valparaiso

Erdem and Claudia, La Chascona, Santiago

Erdem and Claudia, La Chascona, Santiago

Valparaiso

Valparaiso

Santiago

Santiago

Valparaiso

Valparaiso

Valparaiso

Valparaiso

International Workers' Day, Valparaiso

International Workers' Day, Valparaiso

Chile

Santiago • Valparaiso

April 2019 • Santiago sprawls in a valley between two mountain ranges, the air usually hazy with urban exhaust. Valparaiso is perched on a cluster of vertiginous hills overlooking the Pacific, its air churned by cool ocean breezes. Chile's two largest cities are a lot like Los Angeles and San Francisco. Santiago has the stronger arts institutions; Valparaiso has the more vivid street canvas: murals, graffiti, brightly painted whatnot. Valparaiso is a leftist safe zone; Santiago—the beating financial heart of South America's most stable economy as well as home to a grueling museum about the Pinochet era—is where the gears grind the loudest. Most notable difference between the two cities and their California cousins: Santiago and Valparaiso are only an hour apart via bus.

Santa Lucia Hill, Santiago

Santa Lucia Hill, Santiago

Valparaiso

Valparaiso

Museum of Memory and Human Rights, Santiago

Museum of Memory and Human Rights, Santiago

International Workers' Day, Valparaiso

International Workers' Day, Valparaiso

Joaquín Torres-García, Centro Cultural La Moneda, Santiago

Joaquín Torres-García, Centro Cultural La Moneda, Santiago

Funicular, Valparaiso

Funicular, Valparaiso

Erdem and Claudia, La Chascona, Santiago

Erdem and Claudia, La Chascona, Santiago

Valparaiso

Valparaiso

Santiago

Santiago

Valparaiso

Valparaiso

Valparaiso

Valparaiso

International Workers' Day, Valparaiso

Valparaiso