April 2012 • Couldn't afford a rental car so I relied on the louage system (8-passenger share taxis) to get around the country. No freedom to stop whenever something interesting came along, but at least I could talk with Tunisians who aren't connected to the tourism infrastructure. Conversations ranged from enlightening (a businessman's praise for the work ethic of people in Sfax) to sad-trombone awkward (three hijab-wearing university girls upset by my atheism, urging me to read the Quran). Several people mentioned how new it is for them—only a year after their Dignity Revolution—to talk so openly and freely with a foreigner. And in that spirit, I'll definitely never forget the crazy louage driver who looked like Neal Cassady and cursed like Tony Montana, thanks to my helpful coaching.
Pit dwelling, Matmata
Oasis, between Tamerza and Mides