July 2012 • It's too bad a lot of Turkish housing was slapped up in the 1960s and '70s. In those less confident economic times, many families didn't think twice about razing an old wooden, Ottoman-style house and replacing it with a five-story, multifamily concrete box. Fortunately the march of progress never reached Safranbolu. This valley town has done a great job preserving its old architecture and attracting tourists (mostly Turks, Japanese, and Koreans) to spend a night or two. Locals were very friendly and helpful, even more than the Turkish norm. Top honors to our pension owner, who gallantly pursued a bus down the highway so Cindy and Lizzy could make their connection to Cappadocia.