Nov 1, 2007 | Van | Diyarbakir

Although this region is located near the borders with Iran and Iraq, the Kurds who live here are actually happy to meet an American—after all, the war in Iraq strengthened their hand. Heard lots of praise for "Boosh" and "Candoleena Reese" from an Internet cafe owner in Van who had an American bald eagle embroidered on his jacket. The reception was much less politically oriented in Diyarbakir, where I fell in with Umit and Celo, a couple of university students. For 4 days we lived like vampires, sleeping through the day and emerging at night to haunt the city's cafes, kebap houses, and the outstanding Guney Film & Muzik Market.