Ceran

Ceran

Pro-government rally, Van

Pro-government rally, Van

Hosap Castle

Hosap Castle

Umit

Umit

Celo

Celo

Hosap

Hosap

Van

Van

Celo & Umit, Diyarbakir

Celo & Umit, Diyarbakir

Van

Van

Hosap

Hosap

Hosap Castle

Hosap Castle

Farewell concert

Farewell concert

Turkey

Van • Diyarbakir

November 2007 • The Kurds here always seemed exceptionally happy to meet an American, maybe because the war in Iraq strengthened their hand. Heard lots of praise for "Boosh" and "Kandolisa Reese" from an Internet cafe owner in Van who had an American bald eagle embroidered on his jacket. Also had an incredibly strange conversation with another lone American traveler, who, within minutes of being introduced, said he was "keeping an eye on things for the guys in Virginia." The vibe was much less weird and discount Bond in the Kurdish capital of Diyarbakir, where I fell into step with a couple of university students named Umit and Celo. For four days we lived like vampires, sleeping through the day and emerging at night to haunt the city's cafes, kebap houses, and the outstanding Guney Film & Muzik Market. On the final night, they played a 20-minute farewell concert on guitar and ute before I headed to the bus station. Set list included Dylan, Pink Floyd, Styx, Beatles, and Kizilok.

Ceran

Ceran

Pro-government rally, Van

Pro-government rally, Van

Hosap Castle

Hosap Castle

Umit

Umit

Celo

Celo

Hosap

Hosap

Van

Van

Celo & Umit, Diyarbakir

Celo & Umit, Diyarbakir

Van

Van

Hosap

Hosap

Hosap Castle

Hosap Castle

Farewell concert

Hosap Castle