September 2007 • Most Westerners follow the western edge of the country, from Istanbul along the Aegean coast to the Mediterranean Sea. Unfortunately the people who make their living off that tourist trail are a jaded bunch. Selcuk (Ephesus) was a drag of nonstop time banditry, but Bergama (Pergamon) became the first brush with Turkey's legendary hospitality. An older couple found me wandering the streets looking for a restaurant. It wasn't open because of Ramazan, so they pulled me inside their home and fed me dinner. We talked for a couple of hours, leaning heavily on numbers and pantomime since we didn't speak the same language.
First haircut, Bergama
Lucy and Ethel, Assos