September 2007 • Most Westerners stick to the western edge of the country, a well-trod tourist trail from Istanbul along the Aegean coast to the Mediterranean Sea. Unfortunately the people who make their living off it are a somewhat jaded bunch. Selcuk (Ephesus) was a drag, but Bergama (Pergamon) was my first brush with Turkey's legendary hospitality. An older couple found me wandering the streets looking for a restaurant; it wasn't open because of Ramazan, so they pulled me inside their home and fed me dinner. We talked for a couple of hours, which is remarkable mostly because they didn't know a word of English.
First haircut, Bergama
Lucy and Ethel, Assos