May 29, 2010 | Halong Bay

Took an overnight boat tour of Halong Bay—3,000 limestone karst islands jutting out of the Gulf of Tonkin. As package tours go, this one was the usual well-oiled machine. But I lucked out because the ride was shared with some very cool people, most of whom are volunteering with Australian NGOs throughout Vietnam. Their altruism was touching, but what really brought me to tears was the way Nathan and Kristy mauled the uncensored version of Eminem's "Without Me" during the obligatory karaoke party.