February 2023 • For a country with such great resources, traditions, landscapes, and people, it’s a tragedy Argentina can't fix its 90% inflation rate. I'd need a master's degree to ever understand the two-tier currency exchange (one is called “blue dollar” and targeted to visitors). All I know is: Don’t come to Argentina with U.S. notes smaller than 100, or with any folds or marks on them. And don’t bring notes that have a puny Ben Franklin face—only the big-faced Ben will do. Burned a lot of time and adrenaline trying to get money via Western Union transfer from my bank account, eventually walking out of one exchange with a stash of pesos that looked cartoonishly obscene in my front pocket. Buenos Aires is a wonderful city, but right now the difficulty in obtaining money at a reasonable rate cannot be overstated, and it falls especially hard on those who aren't just passing through.
Cementerio de la Recoleta
= 500 USD
Palace of the Argentine National Congress
Eva Perón's tomb, Cementerio de la Recoleta
El Ateneo Grand Splendid
Cesáreo Bernaldo de Quirós, "El muchacho de los arreos" (detail), Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes