February 2023 • Salvador is reputedly one of the most photogenic cities in Brazil, with a cobblestoned old town and blocks of brightly painted colonial-era buildings. It’s also one of the most frustrating, because any attempt to veer away from the main tourist zones (Pelourinho and Rua Direita de Santo Antônio) is met with helpful but stern warnings from locals that it’s too dangerous. Adjusted to the limitations and had a great time anyway—most memorably at Museu de Arte Moderna da Bahia for sunset and then Rio Vermelho for the open-air festival vibe. The capstone: an all-woman samba performance at the Colaboraê cultural center. ¡Arrasou!