Myanmar

Ayeyarwady River

January 2010 • Got off the tourist loop (Yangon–Bagan–Mandalay–Inle Lake) and flew to Myitkyina, the northernmost town where foreigners can go without a special permit. Followed the Ayeyarwady River back to Yangon, using local and express boat, train, minivan, bus. Rarely saw other foreigners, so the reception from locals was rock-star caliber. Sometimes the attention was endearing (the guy in Monywa), and sometimes it was oppressive (the girl in Pakokku). Many people want to learn or practice English, which is usually taught inaccurately by a Myanmar national rather than a native speaker. People are so starved for contact with the outside world that social boundaries seemed elastic, or even nonexistent.

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