Apr 28, 2012 | Ksar Ouled Soltane

Intended to visit for only an hour but got caught up in the hospitality and exceptionally slow pace of life. New friends gave me everything they had: coffee, Internet, art, foosball, dinner, and a mat to sleep on. Most visitors snap a few photos of the impressive ksar then barrel out of town. But they're missing out on the real charm of Ksar Ouled Soltane—how life ricochets in slo-mo from the cafe to the Publinet to the foosball parlor. Many thanks to Zied, Feteh, Khalifa, Soltan, and Lazhar for their well-timed kindness. And a special thanks to the crazy old toothless guy who wanders around wearing a cape and straw hat. He said a few sharp words to me in Arabic then banged on my head with his walking stick. Likely translation: Happy Birthday!